Background[1]
Phenylethyl Resorcinol, molecular formula C14H14O2, full chemical name 4-(1-phenylethyl)-1,3-benzenediol, is a white crystalline solid with low odor . Soluble in ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentanediol, solubility in water is 265 mg/L at 25°C. Phenylethylresorcinol is an effective whitening ingredient developed by Symrise Company. It has a strong antioxidant effect and strongly inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, thus reducing the production of melanin. Skin testing showed that 0.5% kojic acid was more effective than 1% kojic acid when not exposed to light. In 2012, the China Food and Drug Administration (SFDA) approved phenethylresorcinol as a cosmetic raw material for use in cosmetics.
Since phenethylresorcinol is a fat-soluble derivative of resorcinol, insoluble in water, and unstable when exposed to light, phenethylresorcinol can be converted into quinone under the condition of light. Similar pink substances. These problems result in a greatly reduced bioavailability of phenethylresorcinol. Therefore, it is necessary to take certain measures to increase its photostability, thereby increasing its bioavailability and the shelf life of cosmetics.
The chemical name of phenethylresorcinol is 4-(1-phenylethyl)-1,3-benzenediol. It is an ingredient with excellent whitening effect, mainly by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. to achieve whitening purposes. Existing research shows that phenylethylresorcinol can effectively whiten skin when used at a dosage of 0.5% or more, and it can also effectively resist oxidation and remove wrinkles. However, high concentrations of phenethylresorcinol can cause skin allergies when used in cosmetics. The limit of use in cosmetics is 0.5%. The allergy problem makes it difficult to use phenethylresorcinol in large doses. No better whitening effect can be achieved.
Apply[3]
1. Preparation process of phenethylresorcinol anti-freckle cream and its preparation method:
1) Mix the water 75%wt~100%wt, collagen extract 1%wt~5.0%wt, hydrolyzed β-glucan 1%wt~3.0%wt, glycerin 1%wt~2.0%wt, Pour butanediol 1%wt~2.0%wt, betaine 0.1%wt~1.0%wt, allantoin 0.1%wt~0.2%wt, ethyl benzyl ester 0.1%wt~0.2%wt into the reaction kettle and heat until The temperature is 85 degrees Celsius, which is phase A.
2) Mix the phenethylresorcinol 1%wt~4.0%wt, dioctyl carbonate 1%wt~4.0%wt, squalane 1.0%wt~3.0%wt, stearyl alcohol 1 %wt~3.0%wt, steareth-21%wt~2.0%wt, steareth-211%wt~2.0%wt, tocopherol 0.1%wt~0.5%wt, bisabolol 0.1 %wt~0.2%wt is poured into the reaction kettle and heated to a temperature of 85 degrees Celsius, which is phase B.
3) Pour 0.1%wt~0.2%wt of the imidazolidinyl urea and 0.1%wt of the flavor into the reaction kettle, stir evenly to form phase C;
4) Mix phase A and phase B evenly, homogenize for 10 minutes and then cool. Add phase C when the temperature is about 30 degrees Celsius. Stir evenly and then discharge. You can get the freckle removal cream.
2. Preparation method of co-delivery nanocomposition of phenethylresorcinol:
Mix 4.0% polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, 1.0% polyoxyethylene castor oil, 25.0% 1,3-propanediol, 3.0% hydrogenated polydecene, 0.1% phenethylresorcinol, Stir and dissolve 5.0% papain and 0.4% phloretin in a water bath at 40°C to obtain an oil phase, which is set aside; add 0.1% heparin sodium, 0.1% vitamin C ethyl ether, 0.05% allantoin, 0.05% carnosine, 5.0% glycerol and 59.29% water are stirred and dissolved in a 40°C water bath to obtain a water phase, which is ready for use;
After obtaining the oil phase and water phase, add the oil phase dropwise to the water phase at a rate of 1 drop/second in a 40°C water bath. During the dripping process, control the stirring rate to 15 rpm. After the mixing is completed, stir at 10,000 rpm. High-speed shearing emulsification under the conditions for 1 minute to produce a micron-sized dispersion; the micron-sized dispersion was subjected to high-pressure homogenization treatment at a pressure of 1200 bar, and cycled once to obtain a co-delivered nanocomposite of phenethylresorcinol. things. The particle size of the phenethylresorcin co-delivered nanocomposition was detected, and it was found that the particle size of the phenethylresorcin co-delivered nanocomposition was 50.2 nm.
To solve the problem in the prior art that high concentrations of phenethylresorcinol can easily cause allergies and conventional concentrations of phenethylresorcinol cosmetics have insignificant whitening effects, a phenethylresorcinol is provided The co-delivery nanocomposition has high drug loading capacity of phenethylresorcinol, no significant irritation to the skin, multi-target and multi-mechanism whitening and antioxidant, good skin permeability, high retention, and good whitening effect.
Preparation[2]
Put 0.2 mol of 2,4-diacetoxystyrene into a three-necked flask with stirring, 4 mol of benzene, and 0.001 mol of p-toluenesulfonic acid, raise the temperature to 80°C and reflux, and maintain the temperature for 5 hours. Then the temperature was lowered to 50°C, 4 mol of methanol was added, the temperature was raised to 64°C and refluxed, and maintained for 1 hour. Then distill under normal pressure to evaporate the solvent. The remaining material in the flask was recrystallized to obtain 32g of product phenethylresorcinol. After liquid chromatography detection, the content was 99.5% and the yield was 80%.
Main reference materials
[1] Li Li, Jiangsu Provincial Center for Disease Control and Prevention, Nanjing, Li Li, Yang Run, & Jiangsu Provincial Center for Disease Control and Prevention, Nanjing,. (2014). High-performance liquid chromatography for the determination of oxidative stress in whitening and anti-freckle cosmetics. Content of phenethylresorcinol. Jiangsu Preventive Medicine, 25(5), 13-14.
[2] Yu Lei, Zhou Yang, Chen Gangsheng, Jin Xueping, & Li Jianxiong. (2017). Research on the synthesis process of phenethylresorcinol. �Science and Bioengineering, 34(12), 17-19.
[3] Zhao Shizhi, Fang Qingqiu, Ye Jun, Yang Shan, & Wang Lei. (2014). Preparation and stability analysis of phenethylresorcin nanostructured lipid carrier. Food and Drugs, 16(6), 384-388.
