Understanding Cosmetic Ingredients 1000’s
Without further ado, directly on the material!
111, resveratrol
Resveratrol is a colorless needle crystal, insoluble in water, soluble in ethanol, ethyl acetate, acetone and other polar solvents. It has strong light instability and thermal instability, fluorescence under UV irradiation, poor stability when pH>10, blue when encountering ferric chloride-potassium ferricyanide solution, and red when encountering alkaline solutions such as ammonia.
Resveratrol is a non-flavonoid polyphenolic compound containing the structure of astragalus, which was firstly isolated from the root of hairy-leafed resveratrol in 1940. It exists under natural conditions in both free state and glycoside forms. Resveratrol is able to achieve whitening effects by inhibiting the expression of mRNA for the enzyme complexinase in melanoblasts and by inhibiting TRP-1. Resveratrol can also inhibit the proliferation of B16 melanocytes.
112, Phenylethylresorcinol
Molecular weight is 214.27, white crystalline solid, light odor, melting point is 78 ∽ 82 ℃. Solubility in water is 0.5%, soluble in ethanol, glycerol, butylene glycol and other polyols.
A new type of whitening spot raw materials, research shows that: phenylethylresorcinol is one of the most effective complex enzyme inhibitors, phenylethylresorcinol can effectively inhibit the activity of synthesizing melanin in the B16V cells, but it has the disadvantage of light instability, easy to chelate with the metal ions, the light conditions will be gradual change from white to light yellow, and ultimately become pink.
113, fruit acid and its derivatives
Fruit acids are α-hydroxy acids, abbreviated as AHAs, including citric acid, malic acid, pyruvic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, glucosinolates, etc., which are collectively known as fruit acids because they are present in the extracts of a variety of fruits.
Fruit acids are mainly used to improve the skin condition by penetrating into the stratum corneum of the skin, accelerating the speed of cell renewal and promoting the detachment of cell death in two ways, having the effect of making the skin surface smooth, tender and soft, and having the effect of reducing skin pigmentation, pigmentation and other effects.
114, vitamin C and its derivatives
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is the most representative inhibitor of melanin production, in the organism is responsible for the role of oxidation and reduction. The color of melanin is determined by the quinone structure in the melanin molecule. Vitamin C has the property of a reducing agent, which can reduce the quinone structure to a phenolic structure. However, vitamin C is easily discolored and unstable to heat, while vitamin C derivatives are relatively stable.
115, azelaic acid
Azelaic acid has a strong spot effect, but due to the adverse effects on the emulsification system and solubility and other aspects of the problem, limiting the application of azelaic acid in cosmetics. After complexing azelaic acid with urea, its water solubility is enhanced.
Azelaic acid is a kind of naturally occurring dihydroxy acid, which can selectively act on abnormally active melanocytes and block the synthesis of complexinase proteins, but it has less effect on melanocytes with normal function.
116, Pantothenic acid
Vitamin B5, also known as pantothenic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin with the chemical formula of C9H17NO5, which is widely found in plants and animals and has the name of “pantothenic acid”. Since all foods contain vitamin B5, there is hardly any deficiency problem.
Vitamin B5 is used as a coloring aid in the food industry and as a food fortifier in bread, pastries and dairy products. In cosmetics, it protects and improves rough skin.
117, Tretinoin and its derivatives
Tretinoin, also known as tretinoin, is a biological agent, soluble in water, ethanol and ethyl acetate, slightly soluble in ether, chloroform and pyridine, slightly soluble in other solvents, and ferric chloride with the role of a special red color.
Tretinoin has two inhibitory effects on melanogenesis: one is the inactivation of the catalyst for the hydrogenation of the complex amino acids required in the oxidation of complex amino acids to dopa and dopaquinone, and the other is the inhibition of the production of 5,6-dihydroxy-indole-carboxylic acid from dopa pigment. Tretinoin is less stable to light and heat, easily oxidized, discolored, easily chelated by metal ions, and poorly absorbed by the skin.
118, Tocopheryl acetate
Tocopheryl acetate is an organic matter, chemical formula for C31H52O3, light yellow viscous liquid. Soluble in chloroform, ether, acetone and vegetable oil, soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water. Heat resistance is good, can be oxidized when exposed to light, the color becomes darker, belongs to vitamin E derivatives. Tocopheryl acetate is mainly used as skin conditioner, moisturizer and antioxidant in cosmetics and skin care products.
Tocopheryl acetate belongs to vitamin E derivatives, often used as an antioxidant in cosmetics, has a good antioxidant effect, it is a kind of oil-soluble natural substances, the skin is a very good nutritional moisturizing agent, added to the maintenance products, can avoid the oxidation of the rancidity of the fat and stabilizing the oil. In moisturizing and maintaining connective tissue, as well as protecting the skin from UV damage have a good performance, the ingredients can make the skin feel soft and maintain skin moisture, promote wound healing, prevent inflammation to prevent the skin from roughness and cracking, improve the dark spots, the safety risk index is not high, so it is widely used.
119, Mevalonate
Mevalonate, chemical formula C6H10O3, Mevalonate in cosmetics, skin care products, the main role of the moisturizing agent, emollient, Mevalonate does not cause acne!
120, Blue Copper Peptide
GHK-Cu (Copper Glycyl-histidine-tripeptide) is a glycyl histidine tripeptide (Glycyl histidine tripeptide, GHK) and copper-bound compounds, because of the blue color of its aqueous solution named blue copper peptide / blue copper peptide, is naturally occurring in human plasma, urine, saliva, Cerebrospinal fluid of small molecules of copper peptide complexes
1, Promote collagen. Stimulate the formation of collagen and elastin, tighten the skin and reduce fine lines.
2、Anti-inflammatory repair. Restore skin repair ability, increase skin intercellular mucus production and reduce skin damage. Promote the growth and differentiation of epithelial cells, thereby accelerating the healing of wounds.
3、Strengthen skin. Stimulate the formation of glucosamine, increase the thickness of the skin, reduce skin sagging firm skin.
4、Anti-aging. Auxiliary antioxidant enzyme SOD, has a strong and favorable anti-free radical function.
5, blue copper peptide is a very suitable for sensitive skin ingredients, as long as the skin has the need to use it basically can not go wrong.
6, promote the proliferation of hair follicles, increase the size of hair follicles, promote hair growth
So what are the drawbacks of blue copper peptide?
1- Ingredients are delicate and contraindicated.
It can’t be paired with overly acidic or alkaline finished products, too low or too high pH can lead to the decomposition of GHK-Cu’s failure to discolor and lose its function.
It can’t be used with VC, it has strong reducing property, easily oxidized into dehydrovitamin C. Copper element will oxidize VC and change its own structure.
And the blue copper peptide is calm and stable, the normal addition of 0.04% to 0.2%, you can achieve very good results, but if the addition is too high, on the contrary, it will cause cytotoxicity.
2-High cost, resulting in high price
“All the beauty in the world smells like money”. Blue copper peptide interpretation of this sentence, foreign raw material prices in the 18-20 million yuan / kg, the domestic at least 100,000 yuan / kg or more, the price, and the same weight of gold almost. It is really the “gold” of peptides and the “Hermes” of ingredients. Brand in the use of it as raw materials, the cost pressure will increase. The real situation is: most of them are fake blue copper peptide, and even some also use some blue pigment to disguise themselves, hey ~ a little conscience is also added so a little bit of marketing propaganda, so sisters in the purchase must be bright eyes Oh, do not covet cheap ~
Although the blue copper peptide effect multifaceted, comprehensive function, also has excellent potential and upside, but all of its functions can be replaced.
For example, anti-aging and promote collagen, you can use VCVA, or if you want to pursue a more gentle you can look at the composition of the hyaluronic acid or peptide; then, for example, if you want to look at the restorative effect, you can look at the oligopeptide and ceramides ah, people will have a lot of choices, and the price is not very expensive.
121, sodium polyaspartate
Sodium polyaspartate in cosmetics, skin care products, the main role is moisturizing agent, anti-static. It has strong hydrophilicity and water solubility, and can form a breathable protective film. It also has a strong hydration function to enhance skin hydration; efficient water-locking and moisturizing function to make the skin feel smooth and refreshing. It also replenishes skin nutrients and enhances skin plumpness and elasticity. As a good skin softener, it can tighten the skin and reduce wrinkles.
122, anthocyanin
Anthocyanin (anthocyanidin), also known as anthocyanin, is a natural class of water-soluble natural pigments widely present in plants. Most of the main coloring substances in fruits, vegetables and flowers are related to it. Anthocyanin is mainly used in food coloring, but also can be used in dyes, medicine, cosmetics and so on.
123, Lutein
Lutein (Lutein), is a carotenoid, chemical formula for C40H56O2, in vegetables, fruits, flowers and other plants widely available, its chemical formula contains two ketone ring, is present in the human eye retina macular region of the main pigment . Lutein in cosmetics, skin care products in the main role is whitening spot, antioxidant.
Lutein has an effective antioxidant capacity, can be used to protect human cells free radicals. In addition, lutein is converted into the trace mineral vitamin A in the body, which also protects against the potential damage of harmful blue and ultraviolet light and protects optic nerve cells from damage. Recent studies have shown that lutein has the ability to prevent the onset of eye diseases such as cataracts and glaucoma, as well as lung, prostate, breast and cardiovascular cancers. Because of its bright color, harmlessness, stability and high safety profile, lutein is commonly used as a colorant, additive, cosmetic and tobacco product.
124, Lauroyl diethanolamine
Also known as cocoyl diethanolamine, molecular formula for C11H23CON (CH2CH2OH) 2, trade code detergent 6501, referred to as 6501, it is made from fatty acids and diethanolamine under the protection of N2 gas heating condensation reaction.
During the synthesis reaction, 1mol of diethanolamine does not form amide, but combines with alkyl acyl alcohol amine to form a complex, which makes the water insoluble C11H23CON(C2H4OH)2 become water soluble, so the aqueous solution of these products is alkaline, with a pH value (1% aqueous solution) of 8-11, and its solubility will be reduced in the acidic medium.
Properties: light brown viscous liquid, can be dispersed in water, soluble in general organic solvents, with good foaming, stability, thickening, penetration, rust resistance and detergency, good compatibility with other active substances. Compound with AES surfactant, can achieve better thickening effect. It can be used as foam stabilizer and viscosity improver in shampoo, light detergent and liquid soap.
125, Coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide
Molecular formula is C11H23CONHCH2CH2OH, trade code is CMEA.
Properties: white or light yellow flaky solid, not easily soluble in water, but when compounded with soap and other surfactants, it can become a transparent solution. It has excellent foam stabilization, thickening, wetting and hard water resistance properties, high biodegradability, can be used in solid, powder and liquid detergents. Applied in soap, it can fix fragrance, increase luster and prevent corruption. It has very obvious thickening effect in liquid washing products. Adding 1% to the formula, its viscosity can reach or even exceed 6501, adding 2% to 3% of the viscosity of the formula, can reduce the viscosity of the inorganic salts used to add. Especially suitable for ammonium salt and sulfosuccinate system. It can be widely used in various detergents such as shampoo, bath liquid and meal washing.
126、Microcrystalline wax
Microcrystalline wax, white amorphous amorphous solid wax, C31-70 branched chain saturated hydrocarbons mainly, containing a small amount of cyclic, straight chain hydrocarbons, odorless and tasteless. Insoluble in ethanol, slightly soluble in hot ethanol, soluble in benzene, chloroform, ether, etc.; miscible with a variety of mineral waxes, vegetable waxes and hot fatty oils.
Microcrystalline wax is used as binder and emulsion stabilizer in cosmetics, it is a substitute for paraffin wax, the product is more elastic and viscous than paraffin wax, it is a safe ingredient and additive.
127, Alginose
Alginose, also known as fungal sugar, is a non-reducing disaccharide composed of two glucose molecules. It often exists as a dihydrate compound with the molecular formula C12H22O11-2H2O.
The role of alginose in cosmetics:
Role 1: Moisturizing
Alginose can replace the role of water in the cell when severely dehydrated, it can complement hyaluronic acid, not only can always keep the tissue and skin, cosmetics itself fresh, but also can do intelligent moisturizing effect.
Role 2: Improve the skin’s ability to adapt to the environment
With its small molecular weight, alginate is easily absorbed by the skin. When it enters the cells, it can play a unique function to improve the cell’s anti-drying and anti-freezing ability, and then improve the skin’s ability to adapt to the environment.
Role 3: Anti-radiation effect
Alginose is able to remove OH-free radicals produced by α and β rays, making cellular DNA less prone to mutation. It can effectively protect DNA from radiation-induced damage and is a protective repair factor for skin cell DNA.
Role 4: anti-oxidant “polyphenol” has a stabilizing effect
An indispensable part of cosmetics is to maintain the stability of the active ingredients, because if the ingredients are not stable, it will make the product problems. Green tea, for example, has a high content of tea polyphenols, is a very active antioxidant, but in the formulation is very unstable. Alginose, on the other hand, has an anti-oxidant stabilizing effect that reduces the likelihood of product problems.
Role 5: Resistance to skin aging
Alginose has the role of protecting the epidermal cell membrane structure, the skin is prone to lose moisture in harsh environments, and alginose can be formed in the cell surface layer of the protective film to maintain skin moisture, thus avoiding the precipitation of skin melanin, skin aging phenomenon.
128, Copper Gluconate
Copper Gluconate (Copper Gluconate), molecular formula Cu (C6H11O7) 2 molecular weight, light blue powder.
Copper gluconate in cosmetics, skin care products, the main role is skin conditioning agent. Copper is a component of many important enzyme systems in the body. Copper in cosmetics, which promotes the absorption and utilization of iron, can maintain the function of the central nervous system. It enhances the skin’s ability to resist and has a protective effect on the skin. In hair products, it can prevent whiteheads and other conditions.
129. Caffeine
Caffeine, chemical formula for C8H10N4O2, is a xanthine alkaloid compound, is a central nervous system stimulant, can temporarily drive away sleep and restore energy, clinically used for coma recovery. Coffee, tea, soft drinks and energy drinks with caffeine are very popular, so caffeine is also the most commonly used psychotropic drug in the world.
Caffeine, alias: theophylline, caffeine, 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine. Caffeine’s main role in cosmetics and skin care products is as an antioxidant, bodybuilding efficacy ingredient, anti-hair loss and hair care, which is relatively safe and can be used without fear.
Caffeine is a nerve center excitatory drugs, and theophylline, as well as the role of hair, external use can promote the penetration and absorption of other active substances. Combined with estrogen, it can inhibit and treat acne, and tincture can prevent premature baldness caused by male endocrine function. Caffeine is also an effective lipolytic substance, and lipolytic hormones such as nerve tissue growth factor, rosemary extract, horse chestnut bark extract can be used externally for weight loss cream. It also has the effect of tightening the skin and removing wrinkles. Caffeine is not listed in the Cosmetic Additives Handbook. The safety of its application in cosmetics is being studied.
